Hidden in a charming valley, in the French wine region called Burgundy, the Fontenay Abbey is one of the oldest Cistercian Abbey in Europe. Burgundy might not have been on your list of places to go to, but this might change, once you see how picturesque this abbey is.
Note: there are affiliated links down below for books about the Fontenay Abbey and the Cistercian order that you might enjoy if you want to learn more. If you decide to purchase one of those books, I’ll get a small commission at no extra cost to you.
The Cistercian order
I’ve taken you before to the Maulbronn Monastery in Germany as well as the Orval Abbey in Belgium. Both were Cistercian Abbey like Fontenay. In addition, I really have to show you the Alcobaça Monastery in Portugal because the parallel with the Fontenay Abbey will be most interesting… I shall do that soon.
If you’ve read those other pieces, you already know a bit about the Cistercian order. If not then, you know what to do! 😉 The best explanations are in the article about the Maulbronn Monastery.
The history of Fontenay Abbey
The Fontenay Abbey was founded by Saint Bernard of Clairvaux in 1118.
Bernard of Clairvaux and the founding of the Fontenay Abbey
Bernard of Clairvaux (1090 – 1153) was an abbot and a follower of Saint Robert of Molesme (1028 – 1111) who had led the rebellion against the great church of Cluny. Robert of Molesme had created the Cîteaux Abbey, in 1098, as a place where the Rule of Saint Benedict would be respected.
But after after just a few years, the Cîteaux Abbey felt victim to the same “plague” as the Cluny Abbey. Donations from the wealthy nobility, wishing to gain absolution for their sins, were flooding!
Even Robert of Molesme tried to live several times but couldn’t.
So when Bernard of Clairvaux entered the Cîteaux Abbey, it isn’t really surprising that he did not find the austerity he was looking for.
Just a few years later, with 12 companions, he left to found the Abbey of Fontenay. (He had already founded the Clairvaux Abbey in 1115)
The early days
In 1118, Bernard of Clairvaux established the Fontenay Abbey and in 1130 the final location of the future Abbey was found. At the crossing of 2 wooded valleys, in a secluded area, the construction began. On a damp and marshy land, the Church was first built and was consecrated by Pope Eugene III in 1147.
The rest of the Abbey’s building would slowly be erected too and the Fontenay Abbey would, by 1200, host more than 300 monks.
By 1269 Fontenay became a Royal Abbey and enjoyed a prosperous time (maybe too prosperous) which would not last…
The decline of the Fontenay Abbey
Cistercian Abbeys were to be self-sufficient and were usually built in isolated areas. The seclusion they sought, would unfortunately become their weakness.
Fontenay was pillaged and ransacked several times during the hundred Years’ war and especially in 1359 by the army of King Edward III of England. It was further damaged during the wars of region in the late 16th century. And the French Revolution marked the end of Fontenay as a Cistercian Abbey.
Wars and pillages are not the only things that lead to the decline of the Fontenay Abbey. As mentioned above, the Abbey was maybe too prosperous and the rule of Saint Benedict had become somehow, a rule of the past… When an abbot has to ban gambling and women, one may consider that the spiritual standards have declined!
Anyway, between the 12th century and the 18th century, a lot of things had changed in the World, Europe, France and religion.
Fontenay Abbey since the French revolution
The Fontenay Abbey was confiscated at the revolution and sold to a paper manufacturer who found its location ideal. The access to water and the wooded valleys of Fontenay probably saved the Abbey from becoming a quarry.
The war of 1870 put an end this era and once again the Abbey was left in despair until 1906 when Edouard Aynard bought it.
Major restorations works were done until 1911, but the real renaissance of the Abbey was lead by René Aynard, son of Edouard Aynard. And to this day, the Aynard family continue to own and care for this jewel.
There is beauty in simplicity
Monks were great builders and although all Cistercians abbey follow the same model, they were great architects.
The Abbey of Fontenay is no exception to the spirit of Cistercian architecture: simple, conservative and utilitarian. The church and cloister, the centre of life for monks, give access to the other buildings in a very practical way. Possible expansions of the Abbey were anticipated and all the buildings are either parallel or perpendicular and open ended to allow such expansions.
Strongly anchored in its Romanesque time and style, the Abbey of Fontenay shows small hints of what was to come: Gothic architecture. Massive walls, sturdy piers, groin vaults and round arches are all very Romanesque. But you will notice some slightly pointed arches in the church and beautiful rib vaults in the chapter house for examples, which are very Gothic details.
Despite this slightly mix of styles, the overall feeling when visiting is of pure harmony. There is true beauty in the simplicity of the lines and symmetry of the design. And there might be peace in beauty…
Let’s visit!
As you pass the gatehouse of the Abbey, you arrive in the courtyard with the church and cloister on your left and the forge on your right.
As you walk toward the church you will pass by the dovecote and abbot’s lodging as the abbot was the only one to have his own cell.
Pssss…. click on the below images to enlarge!
Next on your visit, and after climbing a flight of stairs, you will get to visit the dormitory. A bare space, where monks would sleep on the floor.
Back down, you will head to the chapter house and the monks’ room. In the chapter house, reading and planning was done. The monks’ room was used for various activities including writing.
The warming room is located next to those 2 other rooms and was one of the only one to be heated. Ink was placed by the fire place in a dedicated alcove to not freeze
You should then head to the cloister and enjoy the peace.
Before heading to the forge, do stroll through the gardens in the back…
The forge building is quite impressive
And enjoy as much as you can !
The technical bits
The official website of the Fontenay Abbey to plan your visit: www.abbayedefontenay.com
The Fontenay Abbey is considered as one of the most complete Cistercian abbeys in Europe. It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981.
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These are affiliated links. If you decide to purchase one of those books, I’ll get a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Architecture of Silence: Cistercian Abbeys of France – https://amzn.to/2IFTltF
