We’ve been together to the Cathedral where French Kings were made and it is now time to see the place where German Kings were made: the Aachen Cathedral! The Palatine Chapel which forms the center of the cathedral is an impressive and quite unique example of Carolingian architecture.
A touch of history
We are stepping back in time to the late 8th century. Charlemagne, or Charles the Great was King of the Franks. Despite the name, his kingdom was far reached as it included most of today’s France (except Brittany!), most of Germany, Austria and parts of Italy and Spain. As the uniter of most of Western Europe, Charlemagne is often called the “Father of Europe”.
In these medieval times, life was harsh and wars were constantly led, to gain new territories. Middle Ages are often referenced as Dark Ages by opposition to the enlightenment of the Renaissance period. Despite this, Middle Ages, and especially the period starting with Charlemagne, was also a period of profound changes in terms of politic, economic and cultural changes. It was the beginning of the Carolingian renaissance.
One of the most durable change initiated by Charlemagne, during the Carolingian renaissance, was the establishment of schools! Charlemagne himself, learned, or tried to learn, how to read and write. He recognized the importance of education and the problems caused by illiterate priests who couldn’t read the bible which was written in Latin. Schools were, back then, reserved for elites and priests, but it was just the beginning.
The timeline of the construction of the Aachen Cathedral
Charlemagne was probably born in Aachen and choose such city to build his palace and center of power. The Palatine Chapel, which is now the center of the Cathedral, was part of Charlemagne’s palace. The palace was destroyed but the Palatine Chapel remained.
Construction started around 792 and the Chapel was consecrated in 805 by Pope Leo III. Charlemagne had become, in 800, Holy Roman Emperor as protector of Christianity.
The Palatine Chapel is a Carolingian architecture masterpiece. The central octagonal dome and the sixteen-sided ambulatory are an ode to mathematic and geometry.
You can click on the above pictures to see the details of the mosaic.
The original mosaic was unfortunately destroyed but thankfully reproduced in the 19th century.
In 1414, the gothic choir (pictured above as seen from outside) was consecrated for the 600th anniversary of Charlemagne. It is there, that you will admire the 2 shrines.
Medieval pedestal in the choir
In the 14th and 15th centuries, chapels were added around the Palatine Chapel.
Later, in 1644, a new roof was built for the Palatine Chapel.
In 1788, the gantry was added as well as the Wolf’s door and in 1884 the tower was erected.
As you can see, the Aachen Cathedral construction lasted several centuries and architectural styles evolved greatly during such times. The Aachen Cathedral may not have the architecture uniformity of certain other cathedrals but is nether-the-less stunning.
Feeling a bit lost?
Remember I have great mini architectural guides available for download.
The legend around the construction of the Aachen Cathedral
Something seemed to happen quite often in Medieval times. Rather than turning to God for help, people seemed to find that, making deals with the Devil, was a far more reliable way to get things done. Remember the story of the construction of the Avioth Basilica? In Aachen, the story is a little similar and thankfully, also has a happy ending. People seem to always be smarter than the Devil!
So in Aachen, the legend goes a little like this:
Lacking money to finish the church, the desperate people of Aachen turned to the Devil, who agreed to help. As you know, making a deal with the Devil is never a one way deal. In exchange for his help, the Devil asked for the soul of the first living, who will be entering the church once finished. People agreed.
On completion of the church, the people released a wolf in it, to trick the Devil. The Devil came to collect his price… When he realized, he had been deceived, he was enraged! He tore the wolf’s soul from its body and left the church, slamming the door behind him. In the process, he lost one of his fingers.
The soul of the wolf is now trapped into the bronze pine cone located in the narthex. Such pine cone faces the wolf statue which has a whole in its chest. The Devil’s finger can be felt in the lion’s head door-knocker, in the right hand door.
Notes:
The wolf statue isn’t a wolf. It is more likely a bear snow. It is a 2nd century Roman bronze statue, which was probably previously used as a water fountain.
The pine cone was most likely used in a water fountain as well. It probably dates from the 1st-2nd century, like the one in the Vatican.
As indicated above, the gantry was added in 1788 so the Devil’s finger probably isn’t what you feel inside the door-knocker! Oops sorry!! But it’s a nice touch to know that the legend already existed and that, in the 18th century, they had quite a sense of humor.
The tour of Aachen Cathedral
As you enter the cathedral, you will find in the narthex the pine cone and the wolf statue. Yet, you will be drawn to the Palatine Chapel and the ambulatory colors.
The octogonal chapel is adorned in its center by the Barbarossa Candelabrum, which was donated, in 1165, by Frederick I Barbarossa (German King and Holy Roman Emperor). It represents the image of holy Jerusalem.
The Shrine of Charlemagne dates from 1200-1215. Charlemagne remains were moved from the Roman marble sarcophagus which first held them and which can now be seen in the Treasury. The Shrine looks particularly small on my picture but actually measures 204 cm long (6,6 ft), 57 cm wide and 94cm high. Just a touch smaller than the Shrine of the 3 kings of the Cologne Cathedral.
The Shrine of St. Mary which dates from 1220- 1238 hold the 4 great relics of Aachen: nappy and loin cloth of Jesus, the dress of St. mary and the burial shroud of John the Baptist. Yes, you read me correctly, the relics include Jesus nappy, because why not!
The altar frontal piece or antependium, the Palatine d’Oro, dates from 1000-1020 and depicts scene from the passion of Christ. (failed picture above with the Shrine of St. Mary in the back)
The pulpit which dates circa 1002-1014 was donated by Henry II (King of England in case you had doubts).
The Throne of Charlemagne is located on the 1st floor of the gallery. Charlemagne himself was not coronated on this throne but 31 Kings of Germany were, until the mid 16th century. The marble throne may be simple in appearance but the symbolism of it is extremely important.
The Cathedral treasury (entrance pictured above) holds many valuable relics, many of which dates back to Charlemagne as a was a keen collector.
The courtyard of the Treasury
A word on the superlatives…
The Aachen Cathedral is the oldest Cathedral… of Northern Europe. It is also the first German UNESCO World Heritage site. The Aachen Cathedral treasury is one of the most important ecclesiastical treasuries in Northern Europe… The Palatine Chapel was the biggest dome, north of the Alps, when constructed.
Nowadays, it seems that we can’t talk about anything, without using superlatives. Biggest this, biggest that, oldest, tallest, first, most decorated… Even Cathedrals have to be first in one or more categories, to attract visitors.
It suddenly made me sad. Why? I’m not entirely sure. I think it is partly because I’m so anti-FOMO titles and partly because those Cathedrals are all so beautiful and so old that they deserve more from us. They deserve respect and admiration no matter what their mensuration are. They deserve to be seen for all their glory, no matter how old they are.
Actually, I’m not quite sure where I’m going with this so I’ll have to get back to you! I’ll think of it and share in a future post, when I get my brain wrap around this, probably, non issue!
The Technical bits
The official website for the Aachen Cathedral is : www.aachenerdom.de
You will find there an impressive 3D visit of the cathedral, some historical information as well as opening times and other useful info for planning your visit. If you can’t go at the moment, the 3D visit is the next best thing!
The 2nd story of the ambulatory and therefore the throne of Charlemagne can only be seen by booking a tour. Same for the choir.
Since the Aachen Cathedral holds relics, it is also a Basilica. Not sure why it is called a Cathedral.
To take picture you need to purchase a photo-wristband – 1€ so totally worth it!
The Aachen Cathedral was amongst the first UNESCO World Heritage sites and the first German one (listed in 1978).
The mosaic above the altar
PIN THOSE IF YOU WISH!
