Visiting the Malbrouck castle is an absolute treat for adults and children alike. Gothic architecture lovers will seek details beyond the expositions featured in such an amazing place, while others will playfully explore the little passages, staircases and hidden nooks.
For the Gothic architecture lovers, let’s first quickly look at a bit of the castle history and architecture before heading on a visual tour.
A bit of history
The history of the Malbrouck castle which was built in Manderen, starts with the Sierck family. Stay with me for a minute and you’ll understand the mismatch of names!
The Sierck family did not start as a noble family. They were at first chatelain or keeper of a castle, the Sierck castle, on behalf of the Duke of Lorraine.
As their influence increased, they were granted the authorization to build a castle in the early 15th century. Such castle was first called Mensberg, or Mansberg, Meinsberg, Mansbourg… some call it the Manderen castle.
So many names! So why is it mostly called the Malbrouck castle now?
The name Malbrouck castle comes from John Churchill, 1st Duke of Marlborough, who used the castle during the Spanish succession war (1705). John Churchill was nicknamed Malbrouck!
He was facing Louis XIV’s troops and stayed in Malbrouck castle just 2 weeks. Yet his name stayed linked to the castle for centuries onward! The song I’m mentioning below probably has something to o with that…
A touch of architecture
At first, the Malbrouck castle appears 100% medieval and is impressive. Massive towers and strong walls, perched high above the village, its looks even more impressive as you reach it and see details like its machicolations, arrow slits and other defensive features.
Indeed, it seems to have it all. Time took its barbican and its drawbridge is now dormant, but you can still imagine those features.
But at last, the Malbrouck castle isn’t entirely what it seems.
By the time the Duke of Lorraine authorized Arnold of Sierck, to build Malbrouck, the fashion and needs for Medieval castles was gone. Originally built between 1419 and 1435, it’s actually a Medieval castle out of its time.
Technically the Malbrouck castle was built as a residence for the Sierck family. Archeological findings have shown that even the towers were inhabited, although these were quickly abandoned as residence and used for agricultural activities.
In addition, when you start looking at things a bit closer, you’ll notice that some of the machicolations are purely decorative. The placement of some of the arrow slits / canon ports are a bit surprising and the use of square towers is slightly bizarre, as not as efficient as round towers for defensive purpose. Even the size of the castle is surprising, as it isn’t big enough to have a full garnison to protect the castle.
So the Malbrouck castle wasn’t really a Medieval castle, but clearly not a Renaissance one, either. Not 100% fit to withstand war and probably not that comfortable as residence. It’s in between times and architecture.
But today, it’s a marvelous place, an incredible jewel on its own and surely a extraordinary exposition space.
Before coming back to life, like so many other castles, the Malbrouck castle suffered the rave of time and men. It was made a public monument in the 1930s and was fully restored between 1991 and 1998.
Let’s visit the Malbrouck castle
As you enter the castle ground and stands in the courtyard, your visit will go clockwise from the Lantern tower.
The Lantern tower
The visit starts in the Lantern tower or many just on its right, in its basement where the remains of a giant oven of sort can be seen in the dark.
The lantern tower is the biggest tower of the castle. As you enter on the ground floor, you’ll probably be amazed by its vaulted ceiling.
On the second floor, you’ll find what looks like a chapel but was an oratory or a room in relation to the chapel. Historian and archeologist have not found the definite answer to where the chapel was.
Going up, you’ll arrive in the auditorium which will enable you to admire the incredible wooden structure of the roof.
Look for the door that leads to the chemin de ronde which will take you to the next tower.
The Witches tower
Love the name, don’t you? Are there any witches there? I didn’t find them 🙁
The witches tower is the smallest tower. With 5 different levels, including the basement, it had the usual required commodities including toilets you can still use!
La tour du Rocher Chauve
The tower’s name probably comes from the fact that it was built on a bare rock. It had 7 different levels including a 2 levels basement. Like for the other towers, the access to the different levels was done with an external spiral staircase. It was modified several times after its construction.
The corps de logis
The corps de logis was modified so much over the centuries that it is hard to follow. It still looks quite amazing and impressive.
La tour des Dames
Finally you will reach the tour des Dames, the only round tower of the castle. It had 6 levels including the basement which might have been a prison or a cooler!
It is so cosy in the tour des Dames, I wanted to move in!
Malbrough s’en va en guerre…
As you read above, the Malbrouck castle had several names during its centuries of existence. The one that sticked is Malbrouck and comes from, as you’ve read above John Churchill, 1st Duke of Marlborough, who used the castle during the Spanish succession war.
I couldn’t write this piece without mentioning the famous song ‘Malbrough s’en va en guerre‘ which was written after him.
The song mocks his alleged death at the the Battle of Malplaquet in 1709. Hint: John Churchill didn’t die at that battle.
The song starts like this:
Malbrough s’en va-t-en guerre
Mironton, mironton, mirontaine
Malbrough s’en va-t-en guerre
Ne sait quand reviendra.
Ne sait quand reviendra…
Wiki shows 20 verses so I’ll spare you. I’ve certainly never learned them all when I was young despite this song been very popular.
As for the tune, it is similar to the one of the English song For He’s a Jolly Good Fellow.
And none of this explains how this song became a nursery song!?!
Conclusion of the visit
The Malbrouck castle is marvelous to visit. Really. Being able to visit a castle in such a perfect state of renovation is always amazing. This one has the particularity to reflect a junction between Medieval and Renaissance periods and is truly a treat.
The expositions, organized there, are always a nice addition for the ones who are not 100% excited by Medieval castles!
Info to plan your visit
The Malbrouck castle is located in Manderen, France. At the crossing of 3 different borders between France, Germany and Luxembourg, it is quite an interesting area.
The official website is: www.chateau-malbrouck.com but is unfortunately only in French. The castle can be visited everyday, except on Mondays, from basically 10AM to 5PM.
Guided tours have to be reserved.
The cafe serves lunch and has an indoor and an outdoor space (a grandiose terrace!). It also has vegetarian and vegan options. Hip hip hooray!
There are a lot of small passages in the castle and a lot of narrow stairs and you know stairs in castles can be uneven, so watch your feet!
