The Jacquemart André Museum is the epitome of what passion for Art is. Edouard André et Nélie Jacquemart dedicated their lives and fortune to create a grandiose, yet intimate, setting for their collection of paintings, sculpture and decorative art. A house full of wonders and masterpieces!
Hidden behind a tall wall, the 158 boulevard Haussmann treasure mansion, is a treat to visit and soak in. What a life these two art lovers must have had! What an accomplishment…
A touch a background
The 19th century can be seen as a century of great progress as well as one of great instability. Following the French revolution of 1789, France went through 3 Republics, 2 Empires and 2 restoration of Kings, in less than 100 years.
However after the short Franco-Prussian War of 1870-1871, France entered into a new era, a Golden Age, one of optimism, peace, prosperity and innovation: La Belle Epoque!
Edouard François André was born in 1833 in a rich and influent family of bankers. He supported Napoleon III and financed the modernization of France. However his true passion was Art, and shortly after the establishment of the 3rd Republic, he devoted himself exclusively to his collections.
Cornélie (Nélie) Jacquemart was born in 1841 and did not come from a wealthy family. This did not stop her from becoming a famous painter which was nothing short of statement, at a time women had very little rights.
In 1872, she painted Edouard André and 9 years later, in 1881, they got married. This mariage didn’t seem to be approved by Edouard André’s family which required them to separate their estate. They both already have an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture and decorative arts, which they brought to the newly constructed home Edouard André had commissioned to be built 158 boulevard Haussmann.
Together, they travelled regularly to Italy, Egypt or Constantinople and devoted their lives to curating an impressive collection.
At the death of Edouard André in 1894, Nélie was able to produce a testament which granted her the entire collection and their residence! She continued the work she & her husband had started, and as agreed with her husband, to her death, gave it all to the Institut de France, which was to keep the estate and the collection as it was. The Jacquemart André Museum opened to the public a year later, and is still today, one of the most beautiful private museum you can visit.
A few words on Nélie & Edouard’s marriage
Edouard and Nélie were very different. He was rich and came from a protestant family. She was from a modest family and catholic. That alone should have stopped them, and not just from getting married. Times were different, society was different.
In addition she was a successful painter, living from her art in a century where just being an unmarried woman was pretty much inconceivable.
So Nélie & Edouard’s marriage was said to be a marriage of convenience.
I see it as a marriage of 2 souls united by a common passion for art. Not a marriage to produce heirs, but a legacy maybe much more valuable. I see it as an extraordinary union, and maybe one a bit enviable or at least admirable!
The visit
The official website (link below) has a great description of each rooms and in each room, with the audio guide and the information panels, you will find the description of each painting and each piece of furniture.
I will therefore show you pictures of each room but will focus here on the items I liked most, the features that impressed me most.
The state apartments
As you start your visit, the first room you’ll enter, just like Nélie & Edouard’s guests did over 100 years, is the Picture Gallery. An antechamber, a gallery of amazing paintings which will lead you to the Grand Salon.
You can see the most famous painting of the museum on the above picture: the portrait of the Marquise d’Antin by Jean-Marc Nattier (dated 1738).
The Toilet of Venus by François Boucher (dated 1738) and its counterpart the Sleeping Venus can be admired here as well as other masterpieces.
You will then enter the Grand Salon, the main reception room!
This bust of Henry IV ornates the fireplace and I found it unusual as he is smiling!
However what is most astonishing about the Grand Salon is that the side partitions can be removed, to open it up with the Music room and the Picture Gallery. A particularly ingenuous hydraulic system allows for the walls to disappear, it seems! And the extended room created allowed for reception of 1000 people to take place.
The Music Room with its gallery and impressive ceiling painting is absolutely stunning!
The above painting is called the Ruined Gallery and was painted by Hubert Robert in 1785. Apparently it inspired the Louvre Museum to use overhead natural lighting for its Grande Galerie!
The informal apartments
The informal apartments is a classical series of room dedicated to the couple’s personal and business affairs.
The first one is the Tapestry Room, which dimensions were adapted to the tapestries!
The above painting is a gouache on paper called Imaginary Portico by Francesco Guardi in circa 1760. The frame is a work of art on its own.
The next room is the couple’s Study which is stunning really.
Then comes the boudoir which was before Nelie’s bathroom and where the below masterpiece can be admired.
It is the portrait of Countess Catherine Skavronskaia by Louise-Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun and is dated 1790.
There are a lot of other gorgeous pieces in this boudoir but I really loved the square clock!
The Boudoir leads to the Library which was formally Nelie’s bedroom.
On the opposite side of the facade, at the end of the winter garden, you will find the smoking room.
The winter garden & the grandiose staircase
You get a pick at the winter garden from the Music room but when you pass the doors and see the staircase, it’s a bit like magic!
The most stunning architectural feature of the museum is surely to this day, the grand staircase. Made of marble and stone, it surprisingly floats above the ground.
I must admit that I felt very unease walking the rounded cornice to the 1st floor of the Music room. Yes there is a balustrade, but still! Yet, I couldn’t keep my eyes from the staircase! It’s magic!
The Italian Museum
I was just not prepared to see the Italian Museum!
How amazing it must have been for the few privilege guests of André & Nélie to be invited to visit. These are rooms filled with wonders.
Saint Georges and the Dragon by Paolo Uccello was painted around 1430-35.
The Florentine & Venetian Gallery are full of treasures, including on the ceiling!
The private apartments
André & Nélie both had their own bedrooms which was common at the time and is probably the secret to happy mariages!
The first room is Nelie’s bedroom with the little conservatory sitting room below.
The second one is the antechamber, located between the two bedrooms, which was the couple’s special private meeting place.
It includes little Edouard’s portait!
Edouard’s bedroom is last. It was renovated after his death with a more feminine touch. His bust can be seen on the chest of drawer.
Things to know before you go
The official website is: https://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com
The café is perfectly charming and is part of the reception rooms so you must at least have tea there!
The official guide is the perfect souvenir. You can buy it before to study a bit before you visit or in the museum boutique.
The below link is an Amazon affiliated link and I will get a small commission if you decided to make a purchase, at no extra cost to you.
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