The Chateau of Amboise - A Royal residence on the Loire

The city of Amboise is blessed with not one but 2 of the most iconic castles of the Loire Valley. I’ve shown you the Clos Lucé, where Leonardo Da Vinci lived and it is now finally time to explore the Château of Amboise.

Note 1: This article includes affiliated links. You know how it works. If you follow one of these links and purchase something, I’ll get a small commission at no extra cost to you?

Note 2: the above picture isn’t the usual view of the Château. To take one like the one you will see on the official website linked down below, you need to cross the river. And I just can’t find the one I took! So here is the château from inside. On the left, the henry II part, on the right, the Francis I part.

Let’s start, as usual, by brushing up on our history to get some context.

A Touch of History

The Château d’Amboise as a Royal Residence

The Château of Amboise was in the 15th & 16th centuries a Royal residence. Charles VII confiscated it in 1434. His grand-son Charles VIII rebuilt extensively starting in 1492, in the French Gothic Flamboyant style. However, Italian renaissance was becoming fashionable so he later employed 2 Italian mason-builders, to ensured that the Château d’Amboise would be cutting edge, at the time.

Note that Charles VIII didn’t enjoy Amboise for long, as he died in 1498 after hitting his head on a door lintel.

When Francis I became King in 1515, he continued the work of his predecessors in Amboise. Francis was an Italian Renaissance connoisseur and man of letters and Amboise lived its most glorious years under his reign. Francis I’s influence can be seen in other châteaux like the Château de Blois & the Château de Chambord of course. Maybe more surprisingly, it can also be seen in The Louvre, the Paris Hotel de Ville and the Château de Fontainebleau.

We’ve talked about this before, Kings had several Royal residences. One of the reasons if that they liked to give châteaux away, to their wives and mistresses amongst others.

After Francis I and his son Henry II (Henry and his wife, Catherine de Medici, together with Mary Stuart, Queen of Scotland and who was promised to the future king Francois II, also lived at least partially in Amboise), the Chateau of Amboise lost its royal favor and felt into decline. A huge part of the château was later destroyed.

The Château d’Amboise as a prison

Looking at the pictures, you may be thinking that being a prisoner in a Royal palace couldn’t have been that bad. Think twice!

Louis XIV first used the château as a prison in the 17th century and amongst its famous prisoners, there was his former minister Nicolas Fouquet (who had built Vaux-le-Vicomte). However, the most famous prisoner of the Château d’Amboise was undoubtedly the Emir Abdelkader.

In 1848, during the colonisation of Algeria, Abdelkader, an influential political and religious leader and a philosopher, was taken prisoner. Although he was supposed to be let free, Abdelkader and his entourage were imprisoned in the Château d’Amboise.

The Emir Abdelkader together with his mother, wives, brothers, children, their tutors, caliphs and servants were kept for 4 years, in frightful conditions in a château which was mostly in ruin.

They were about 100 people, yet only 2 beds were available, one for the Emir and one for his mother. Others slept on the floor. The castle was in terrible state, cold and humid and the women and children suffered most. A one point, they suffered an epidemic of Cholera, which was mostly linked to the lack of hygiene created by the poor conditions of the château. Nuns, of Algerian origins, finally managed to bring a bit of comfort to the women, who could not be seen by French doctors.

The moral distress of the Emir and his people, was indescribable. They had been betrayed.

Although it sounds really bad, one thing to note is that, in the 19th century, religions were highly respected & Islam highly regarded. Despite their imprisonment conditions and despite being heavily guarded, Abdelkader and his people, had no issue following their faith and their traditions.

The simple people of the small town of Amboise were impressed by their ‘exotic’ guests and brought them clothes and food.

The people from the Château de Chenonceau and others château of the region were sending fruits, vegetables and flowers to Amboise. Abdelkader was thereafter invited to visit, which he did although always under military supervision. He also invited them in return.

Abdelkader was finally liberated by Napoleon III in 1852. They remained friends. For example, he accompanied the Empress to the opening ceremony of the Suez canal. He even came back to Amboise in 1860.

A Touch of Architecture

The Château of Amboise architecture is deeply linked to its history.

Although the Loire Valley can seem pretty flat, there are small hills and promontories and the Château d’Amboise was built on one of those. There was first a Gallic oppidum. Later a feudal fortress. But what remains today dates from the 15th century and later.

As you arrive in Amboise, you will see the château in the distance and notice it was built on the strong foundation of the old fortress. The huge round tower and the strong walls contrast with the delicate decorations of the main building.

Each King mentioned above and especially Charles VIII and Francis I, had some changes made to the original château. The dominant renaissance style was however, mostly kept.

Unfortunately for us, only 1/5 of the château remains today. A lot was destroyed during the French revolution and later in the 19th century.

Towards the end of the 19th century, efforts to repair what was left were made and Eugène Viollet le Duc directed such work. Viollet le Duc? Yes! Him again. I’m starting to feel that everywhere I go in France, I find his name. His specialty was medieval castle so maybe he should have stayed clear from this renaissance château? Not quite sure, I might have to research.

In any case, the château suffered yet further damage during WWII but was repaired again and is today maintained by a descendant of Louis Philippe, through the foundation Saint Louis.

The visit of the Château of Amboise

The Château

The Guard rooms above lead to the Salle du Conseil. The reception room where Kings would be kings.

Notice something unusual? The room has beautiful columns in its center.

The above fireplace is very Gothic while the one accros the room is very Renaissance.

Next you will get to Henry II’s apartment

Above: the fireplace in the antechamber – Below: Henry II’s bedroom

Upstairs, you will enter a complete different world! OK maybe not a different world but just a completely different period.

As you enter Louis Philippe’s apartment, you might want to move in!

Above and below: Louis Philippe study

Above: Louis Philippe’s bedroom – Below: the drawing room

Exit from the château is done through the circular passages which were used for coaches and horseback riders. The gift shop is located in the former stables!

The Chapel Saint Hubert

The Chapel Saint Hubert is a Gothic beauty inside out!

The remains of Leornado Da Vinci were actually in the the Chapel of St. Florentin which was completely destroyed. Only recently, were the exact location of such chapel found which lead to the relocation of Da Vinci remains to the Chapel Saint Hubert.

The amazing thing with small chapels like this one, is that you get to admire details unclose.

The gardens

Tere is a beautiful cemetery for the people of Abdelkader’s entourage who died in Amboise but I didn’t take any pictures.

The visit will take you to the top of the big tower, la Tour des Minimes, from which you will have an impressive view on the château’s rooftops and the city of Amboise.

Do pay attention to the tower gothic inspired ceiling and all the details around you!

You don’t get to visit the whole château but what you get to visit is very interesting and very beautiful. Don’t miss it, if you are in the Loire Valley!