There are so many gems hidden in the French Loire Valley, it is hard to choose which ones you’ll want to see. Come along to visit the Chateau du Moulin and it will surely make it on your list.
I can’t count the number of times I drove by a sign showing the direction to the Chateau du Moulin. It is located close by to where I was born and bred and yet, I had never been… until very recently. If you are a usual reader of RTatW, you know I spend a lot of time back home nowadays, so on my last trip, I decided it was time, to take the time!
After buying my ticket and as I was walking on the quiet path to the chateau, my excitement was building up. The chateau only appears to you at the last-minute, as it is first hidden by dense and probably centenary trees. What a sight when it finally appears!
OK, OK let’s first dig a little into its history and architecture before I take you inside!
A touch of history
We’re stepping back in time, in the middle of the French Renaissance, towards the end of the 15th century.
Charles VIII
Charles VIII, from the House of Valois, became King of France in 1483 at the age of 13. As a very young King, the ruling of the kingdom was handled by his sister, Anne of France, until 1491.
Charles VIII married Anne of Brittany in 1491, a marriage that gave him independence and the ability to finally reign by himself. What did he do with such independence? He went to war of course! In 1494, he started the first Italian war which lasted until 1498.
If at first, the invasion of Italy was fairly effortless, it did not end so easily for Charles, although he did make it back home.
Charles VIII was born at the Chateau d’Amboise, was married at the Chateau de Langeais and his wife lived at the Clos Lucé. After his return from the Italian war, Charles VIII died in 1498 in a stupid accident: Back home in Amboise and on his way to a jeu de paume, he struck his head on the lintel of a door and fell into a coma, which lead to his early death at age 27.
What do Amboise, the Clos Lucé or Langeais have in common? They are all located South of the Loire because Paris was not always the center of France.
Philippe du Moulin
So what is the link between Charles VIII and the Chateau du Moulin, apart from being in the same region? Well, the link is Philippe du Moulin.
Little is actually known of Philippe’s life apart from the following:
Philippe was basically Charles VIII’s childhood friend. They went to war together and on the 6 July 1495, at the battle of Fornovo (close to Parma, Italy), Philippe saved Charles VIII life by giving him his horse. Charles rewarded Philippe by ennobling him on the battle field.
Philippe, later became Charles VIII’s chamberlain meaning he was in charge of managing the royal household. He gained further titles like governor of Langres, where he died in 1506.
To clarify one more thing: a moulin is a mill. But there never was a mill at the Chateau du Moulin. The name of the chateau solely comes from its owner, Philippe du Moulin.
A touch or Architecture
As a ‘friend’ of the King, Philippe du Moulin was authorized to build his own castle. He handed the task to Jacques de Persigny, the Royal architect. Construction started in 1480 and lasted until 1502. As you can tell from the dates indicated: 1- the authorization came before Charles became King, which could mean Philippe was far more than just a friend ; 2- He didn’t get to enjoy his new castle that much as he died 4 years after the en of the construction.
The Chateau du Moulin is a 50m by 50m square (164 feet) which plan may have been inspired by the ones of the Chateau de Vincennes. It had a tower in each corner and a curtain wall on 3 sides. Fortification of such were authorized by Royal ordinance but apparently, full fortification were a King privilege. For the King’s subjects, partial fortification had to be enough. That was a pretty smart move actually. The King had to retain a way to take the castle, if the owner was trying to rebel against him!
Nether-the-less, the Chateau du Moulin got its towers, its drawbridge (replaced later by a stone bridge or pont dormant), its keep, arrow slits and so forth… If you need a castle vocabulary refreshening course you can check my mini guide.
Since the Chateau du Moulin was built in the middle of the Renaissance, the actual need for a fortified castle was fairly low. Warfare methods had already changed drastically and castles were not really useful anymore nor fashionable.
This is probably why the Chateau du Moulin is a mix of style. Fortified like a true medieval castle, yet elegant like a Renaissance Chateau.
Let’s visit the Chateau du Moulin
The Chateau du Moulin was still owned by Philippe du Moulin’s descendants until 1900.
In 1901, Marcel Compaignon de Marchéville bought it and started the restoration process. The Chateau du Moulin became the de Marchéville residence for over a century.
Generations of de Marchéville handled the restoration of the chateau as well as its modernization and preservation. They still do to this day.
In terms of modernization, a brilliant heating system was installed at the beginning of the 20th century, for example. It still works today. Electricity is available in each room and the tower added to the keep (to protect the West of the chateau which didn’t have a curtain wall) was used to add modern bathrooms to each floor.
The ground floor drawing-room / reception room
The first room you’ll enter on the ground floor is the drawing-room / reception room. If you’re anything like me, you’ll be surprised by how cosy and welcoming it looks. Do notice the fireplace and scroll down for further info.
Linenfold decors have been used all over the chateau on blinds, doors. It was a popular decor until the 16th century and I heard it’s making a come back!
There is a decorative screen parting the room and during your visit you’ll learn why it is decorated only on one side!
The gothic fireplace lintel is beautifully decorated with various coats of arms.
The iron cast center piece in the fireplace is part of the amazing heating system I told you above. It is decorated with Philippe du Moulin coat of arms. His helmet visor is closed as is was ennobled during his life.
The Chapel
The chapel entrance is by the side of the fireplace. You can see it in the second picture above. It’s tiny but so light. It holds at least one other treasure that is not shown below.
The dining room
The dining room is on the same floor as the drawing-room. There is something slightly more rustic about it, with some of the furniture pieces being from the region. Yet, a lot of details still give it its “chateau worthy look”! Not everyone has tapestry and grandiose fireplace in their dining room.
The 2nd & 3rd floors bedrooms
There are 2 bedrooms on the 2nd floor which are equally beautiful and well furnished with all sorts of incredible pieces.
The image above shows a regional bridal crown made of flowers – probably from the 19th century (sorry can’t remember).
The 2nd bedroom on the 2nd floor was the master bedroom. Includes a king size bed!
There is one more bedroom on the 3rd floor that you will get to visit.
The bed cover is made from a piece of fabric that comes from the Sainte Chapel in Paris. The tapestry is from Italy and you will want to look at it closely.
The library
Next to the kitchen, you will find the library which, like all the other rooms display some great pieces of furniture. The center table is quite a surprise which you’ll understand why when you see the top slide open.
The kitchen
The kitchen has the most gorgeous vaulted ceiling I’ve ever seen in a kitchen and includes some interesting pieces.
Probably the most surprising feature of the kitchen is the dog wheel pictures below. Yes, there was a time, when small dogs were used in the kitchen. They were put into the wheel and as they run inside the wheel, the spit on which the meat was put would turn in the fire-place. This method was apparently invented by the English!
For a minute I thought the above pictured object was a mold of some sort. I was wrong. It was a collar used on slaves.
The above picture does show a crossbow.
Time to say goodbye. Just one more look on the centuries old doors.
If you are planning a visit to the Loire region, do not hesitate to visit the Chateau du Moulin. You may feel you’ve seen it all considering how many pictures I posted, but when visiting you’ll realize I’ve barely scratch the surface. The guided visit is extremely informative and you’ll learn so much more on the castle, the furniture and strawberries… Totally worth your time!
And now, just a few more pictures of the chateau du Moulin and its surroundings! click to enlarge!
The Technical Bits
Do check the official website for the opening hours: https://www.chateau-moulin-fraise.com
You can follow the Chateau du Moulin on Facebook to learn about all the events organized there: https://www.facebook.com/chateaudumoulin/
For my French readers: on the 16th of September 2018, there will be special day with les “Amis de Thierry la Fronde”! I might see you there!
Guided visits only. In French but documentation in other languages available.
Philippe du Moulin might be represented in the Eglise Saint Denis of the nearby town of Lassay sur Croisne. He had it built at the same time as the Chateau du Moulin. It is so close by, don’t miss it!
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