The Carmo Convent or the Convent of Our Lady of Mount Carmel is located in central Lisbon, just above the Santa Justa elevator, which provides an easy access, almost stair free!
In my various trips to Lisbon, I had walked by the church portal & red door numerous times. Enjoying the nearby fountain, on the town square and even spending the evening enjoying wine and a cool breeze, while listing to music. Unaware of how much was hiding behind this red door and how much I was missing out!
Finally, on my most recent trip, I’ve made it inside the Convent church! How glad I am!
Let me first bore you a little with my small history recap of the convent and a little architecture chat!
A touch of history
To become independent, a land had to be recognized by the neighboring countries and most importantly, the Pope! This is important, you’ll see why later.
After many years of wars against the Moors, some mariages and a few internal disputes, in 1139, the Kingdom of Portugal was formed and Afonso Henriques became the first King of Portugal. The wars agains the Moors were over and the Kingdom of Portugal was not yet what it is today geographically, but it was the beginning of the history of this great nation.
Although Portugal is a fairly small country, it became more and more powerful, thanks partly to its ability to raise generations of adventurous explorers & seamen. Such explorers & seamen would venture to every corner of the Earth and make Portugal one of the richest European countries.
Small explorations started in the mid 14th century but World exploration really became a thing, in the 15th century.
Ok, this is an extremely short summary of how Portugal became Portugal but what does it have to do with the Carmo Convent?
Well, one common way to get the Pope recognition and on-going support was to build churches, monasteries and convent.
The story of the Carmo Convent start with the story of Nuno Álvares Pereira, an illegitimate son, born in one o the most noble family of Portugal. He was soon to be legitimized by royal decree, which was to guarantee him a good education and a prosperous life.
Nuno started his military career early. At 13 years old to be precise! He was soon to become so successful, that he received many titles and recognitions from the King. At age 24, his decisive role, in the 1383-1385 civil war, assured the independence of Portugal.
Nuno was very pious and he attributed his victory to the Virgin Mary.
Nuno was also very rich. As indicated above, he came from a noble family. He also married well and was successful.
What did rich & pious people do, usually to wash their sins? They built churches, monasteries and convents!
And so did Nuno. He built several ones in fact! The one were are obviously discussing here is the Carmo Convent.
The Carmo Convent and its Church were built between 1389 and 1423.
Nuno joined the Carmo Convent when he was 63 and lived there until his death.
He didn’t just become the most devoted friar… Nuno was beatified in 1918 and canonized in 2008-2009 (!). He is now referred as to Saint Constable or as Saint Nuno of Saint Mary.
Sorry, I haven’t found what the miracle he had performed was, and how it was proved to be a miracle!
What I found though, is that the miracles didn’t stop there. People who took holy soil from Nuno’s grave were also blessed with miracles! Terminally ills were cured, blinds recovered their sights and dead people even resurrected!! That is powerful!
Saint Constable other legacy…
Way before becoming a Saint, Nuno was a man and got married. He had 3 children and for once, the most important one was his daughter, Beatrice, who married Afonso, first Duke of Bragança and son of King John I (the King who became King, thanks to Nuno).
Despite being illegitimate, Afonso was highly regarded by his father and had a highly successful political and social career. Thanks to the expansion of Portugal beyond the sea, his family became one of the most important of Europe & Brazil.
Indeed, Nuno’s daughter, Beatrice and Afonso, her husband, were the first of the very long Bragança dynasty from which many catholic royal families in Europe and Brazil descend from. King John IV & his descendants (who ruled over Portugal from the 17th century to the 20th century) – Queen Isabella of Spain – Catherine of Aragon, the first wife of Henry VIII – Queen Mary Tudor of course…
So if we circle back and recall that Nuno started as a bastard son, this is quite a lineage and quite a history!
A touch of architecture
As mentioned above, the Carmo Convent and its Church were built between 1393 and 1423. At that time Gothic was all rage and the Carmo Convent was at the time the most glorious Gothic Church of Lisbon.
The church of the Carmo Convent, has a nave and 2 side aisle, a transept with a apse with 2 side chapels on each side. Do keep this in mind, because it isn’t that obvious at first when you get to visit.
The Church isn’t really big despite how you may feel when you visit. I’ve taken you to much bigger Gothic cathedrals in France and Germany. You can see this by the number of arches that remains and even externally by the matching 5 flying buttresses. Such flying buttresses were added on the South side of the church to reinforce it as the South side collapsed during construction.
The current condition of the Carmo Convent is due to the great Lisbon earthquake of 1755. An earthquake so big that it almost totally destroyed Lisbon and is considered as one of the deadliest earthquake in history.
It could have been rebuilt, like the rest of the city. Instead, it was decided to keep the remains of the church as a testimony and a reminder of the great earthquake.
Today what remains are the external walls of the church, the pointed arches which seems to reach for the sky and… the apse and side chapels.
Strolling through the nave
As you enter the church by the red door, you are standing in the narthex, admiring the nave and its delicate arches miraculously standing since 1755.
The roofless nave makes quite an impression!
Various tombs, and other architectural relics can be found in each aisle and in the transept.
As you move toward the apse, you may feel a bit lost seeing a door, and a Manueline window above.
I know I was! I had not done my homework before visiting and actually I was glad because what a surprise, once I pass that door!
Discovering the archaeological museum
The nave is part of the archeological museum but the apse and side chapels are home to the most amazing pieces!
Things to know before you go
You will probably see hoards of tourists in front of the church. Guided tours talking about the convent and the great earthquake. Know this: Most of those tours do not go inside! So don’t be afraid when you see all these people, they will most likely move on quickly and there will be far less people inside than you think!
The official website: http://www.museuarqueologicodocarmo.pt/info_en.html
The only page in English at the moment, gives you the opening hours and entrance fee.
An interesting read with beautiful pictures: https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/carmo-convent-ruins
Further notes:
Well, first, if you are reading this while dead and wish to be resurrected, then please know it’s probably not going to be easy. Nuno’s original grave was lost during the great earthquake, although its original location has now been found. You can find his actual tomb in the National Pantheon, but it doesn’t seem to include soil from his original grave. Well, you’ll find what you need but resurrection is not guaranteed! 😉
Second, if you are interested to know what churches were funded by Nuno, here is a list: the churches of Vila Viçosa, Souzel, Portel, Monsaraz, Mou-rao, fivora & Camarate as well as a chapel to the Virgin Mary and to St. George exactly where his banner had stood during the battle of Aljubarrota. At Estremoz he completed the construction of a temple of Our Lady of the Martyrs, begun by King Ferdinand. I found this list somewhere but can’t recall where and can’t find it anymore. Sorry for not giving credit.
Thirdly and finally, if you’re a bit lost when visiting churches, do download and print my church mini guide and you’ll feel much better!
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