The Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde, perched atop of a hill, overlooks and protect the city of Marseille and its habitants. Notre Dame de la Garde holds a special place in the heart of the Marseillais and is worth a visit, to try to understand why.
Marseille is now France’s largest city on the Mediterranean coast and the largest port for commerce, freight and cruise ships. Notre Dame de la Garde overlooks the port and can be seen from all around the city.
In this post, I’ll give you the usual historical and architectural background but I’ll mostly focus on 3 specific aspects which are of interest.
Let’s go!
A touch of History
Construction of the actual Basilica started in 1853 and considered completed in 1864, although works were still carried out until 1897.
In 1850, a request to extend the existing chapel was presented to the Ministry of War. The Ministry of War? Why you may ask! Well let’s step back a little, to understand.
Like with so many other churches, cathedrals or in this case, basilicas, Notre Dame de la Garde is built on the site of a previous chapel which dates back from the early 13th century. However, in the early 15th century, after the battle of Marignan, when French King Francis I visited Marseille, he ordered the construction, on the same hill as the chapel, of a fort to defend the city from Charles Quint.
Such fort was used for military purpose until the French Revolution of 1789.
After such revolution, the chapel was closed, the silver statue of the Virgin Mary melted, the other objects auctioned, the fort used as a prison… Not a pretty sight if you can imagine…
And this might explain why you access the basilica by a drawbridge:
Anyway, the chapel came back to life.
In the early 19th century, more and more people came to the chapel, while the fort remained mainly unused. The chapel was getting too small and was extended a first time. Despite such extension, it was still too small, hence the request to extend it again. Since it was part of the fort, the request had to be made to the Ministry of War.
Do remember that, the 19th century, was pretty unstable in terms of political powers, in place. Louis Philippe d’Orléans was on the throne from 1830 to 1848. The Second Republic lasted from 1848 to 1852. Before Napoleon III “copied” Napoleon I with his Second Empire, from 1852 to 1870.
A Touch of Architecture
As mentionnes above, a request to extend the existing chapel was presented to the Ministry of War. First rejected, it was amended into the reconstruction of a larger church, which was approved in 1852.
Loosing no time, Bishop Eugène de Mazenod, requested studies from various architects. He ended up having to choose between neo-gothic projects and a single Romano-Byzantine project presented by Leon Vaudoyer. In fact, such project was really created by Vaudoyer’s former pupil, Henri-Jacques Espérandieu. The later project was obviously the one selected and the one you can admire today.
It is fun to know that Henri-Jacques Espérandieu was 23 years old when he designed Notre Dame de la Garde. It is also fun to know that he wasn’t catholic but protestant!
Finally, there is a little something, that is rarely mentioned and which, if it had happened in a previous century, would have probably become words of legend: Henri-Jacques Espérandieu died in 1874, at age 45, from a pneumonia he contracted in the crypt of Notre-Dame de la Garde!
Espérandieu Romano-Byzantine Basilica. Above: The choir with the Black Madonna and Child statue created to replace the silver one melted during the revolution. Below: the middle cupola with lots of ex-votos… see below to lean more.
You can find plenty of further information on Notre Dame de la Garde, on Wikipedia for example so I’ll focus here, on 3 items which are not discussed as much.
The statue of the Virgin Marie
On top of the square bell tower, the statue of the Virgin Marie stands and shine. Seen from the ground, it might not be that impressive. It actually is worth discussing for several reasons.
The statue of the Virgin Marie is 11,20 m (36.7 feet) high, which is pretty high. And, I shouldn’t mention this, considering we are talking about a lady, but I’ll say it anyway: she weights 9,796 kg!
Most surprisingly, despite what her weight might suggest, she is almost empty inside. Not completely though, as there is a staircase inside. Until a few decades back, you and I, would have been able to climb to have a look, through the eyes of the Virgin. How cool was that?
You can see drawings and pictures of the staircase and the view on this site: https://madeinmarseille.net/3045-visite-yeux-statue-vierge-notre-dame-garde/ Do have a look and come back, I’ll wait…
Ok, thanks for coming back!
Another interesting thing to mention is how this statue was built. A new technique called galvanoplasty was used by the creator of the statue: Charles Christofle. Such technique allowed the molding of the statue by depositing the coper by electroplating. Before this technique, coper was hammered.
The statue was delivered in 4 pieces and mounted in 1870.
This lady requires regular care and is regularly gilded again (every 30 years or so), so she can keep on shinning on Marseille.
Christofle?
You’ve heard that name before. Now a famous French jeweler, silverware and other home accessories maker, Christofle is a company that was created in 1830 by Charles Christofle. With galvanoplasty and electroplating, his company pretty much revolutionised the silverware market! Amongst their most famous creation is Notre Dame de la Garde Virgin Mary statue as well as some of the statues seen on the roof of the Palais Garnier in Paris. They also created dining sets for Napoleon III, the ocean liner ‘Normandie’, the Orient-Express and probably your grand mother silverware!
The boats hanging in Notre Dame de la Garde
Since the XIVth century, the people of Marseille came to the Virgin Mary to show their gratitude for her protection. They made and still make an incredible number of offerings called ex-votos, to Notre Dame de la Garde.
Ex-votos can be anything but are generally paintings, plaques, war medals and various other objects. In Notre Dame de la Garde there are also boat models which hang on various strings and can be seen around the basilica. Well, there is also a model plane so it can be anything!
Ex-votos are to express gratitude, for surviving a shipwreck for example (hence the numerous boats!). They are not donations to receive something in exchange (fertility, good health…). They are for not remembrance of a lost one, either. And that’s why ex-votos are so peculiar.
You can find some in other churches around the World, but Notre Dame de la Garde is famous for such tradition. Notre Dame de la Garde has so many that there isn’t enough space, even with the museum, to show them all. So collections of ex-votos rotate and the ones not displayed, are kept safe, without being seen by the public.
Bonne Mère
The people of Marseille regard Notre-Dame de la Garde, as the guardian and protectress of the city of Marseille. They call her the Bonne Mère which translate to Good Mother. This has a very loving ring in French, much more than English.
We, humans, love symbols, myths, mysteries, superstitions, etc. and to attach meaning to things. We love to feel protected or at least warned of danger. If the sun shines this way, on this statue, on the 10th day after a blood moon, then this will happen…
Somehow, we refute those old saying and superstition. Some go too far. Yet, consciously or not, if the opportunity presents itself, to walk underneath a ladder, on a Friday the 13th when a black cat is crossing the street, most of us will most probably change sidewalk.
Same goes for protection. In our hours of need, we turn to commonly regarded protectors to help us. We might not be religious, but stepping into a church and even maybe lightning up a candle can’t hurt, can it?
For catholics, a beautiful church, like Notre-Dame de la Garde, is an obvious choice for protection. But for others? Especially for people of other faiths or for atheists? It can be the same. The Bonne Mère, like many other churches or cathedrals has transcended religious beliefs*, to become a beacon of hope & a protector to all in need.
Marseillais love their Bonne Mère. She is part of their daily lives, even if she may just be a fairly recent church. Even if they just catch a glimpse of her on their way to work… She is there and all is well.
*Before you consider emailing me hate emails for saying things like this, do note that I’m trying to offend you. I just think it’s a beautiful thing that we, humans, can appreciate architecture, heritage and respect the meaning they have for others, if not for us. When we are capable of respecting others’ faith, we grow as human race.
A little video you might enjoy: a drone view of the Basilica! Not by me, follow the YouTube link if you wish to know more about the creator.
All in all, Notre Dame de la Garde is gorgeous. She comes as a reward to those who walked up to her…. and there are so many who do. I visited on a “normal” week day. No vacation, no special celebration and it was packed with people. You know that’s not my cup of tea but I could only appreciate, how loved she is.
The Technical Bits
The official website: www.notredamedelagarde.com for opening hours and practical information. Do note that, even the English version of the site, offers a lot of information in French!
Notre Dame de la Garde also has her own online shop where you can buy statues, key chains, books, candles, mugs… https://boutique.notredamedelagarde.com/en/
Access to the church is free but access to the crypt and museum is not.
There are warning signs about pickpockets all around the parking lot which is a bit stressing.
Please dress appropriately.
PIN THIS FOR LATER
