If you are intending to visit Stockholm, there is one place you must go and surprisingly in a city so beautiful, it is underground… Yes you should take the subway, to admire the Stockholm Metro Art.
Rainy days can be a blessing!!
Note: This post include an affiliated link down below as I found the perfect book for you. If you decide to purchase it, I will get a small commission at no extra cost to you.
I’m a firm believer that discovering a city is usually best done overground. If you’d rather die, than being seen in a tourist bus or worst in a tourist train, then regular buses & trams and of course walking, are the best way to discover a city. Yet, in some particular cases, going underground isn’t such a bad idea.
There is indeed something special about using the metro in a city you are visiting. Going deep underground is like going deep into the culture of such city. There, in the myriads of tunnels, escalators and queues, you get to witness modern human conditions & behaviors, the best & sometimes the worst…
If you are not so much into ethnology, there are cities which will make your trip underground worth your time. It is particularly true in a city like Stockholm where the stations are almost all work of Art. It is being called “the longest art exhibit in the World” for a reason!
The Stockholm Metro
The first metro line in Stockholm was opened in 1950. While most European countries were recovering from WWII, Sweden’s neutrality during the war and its famous high income-tax rates meant that there were plenty of funds available to grow the metro project quickly.
At first, existing tramways sections were converted into the metro we now know. Over time, the network grew and the Stockholm Metro network now has over 100 stations.
The creation of a metro in Stockholm is particularly impressive considering the city is made of 14 different islands and has countless waterways. This probably explains why a majority of the stations are above ground.
There are currently 3 main lines but these actually offer several different routes with different termini. Don’t worry, it is still very easy to navigate.
It is worth noting that Sweden has the an impressive number of nuclear bunkers and ‘all purpose’ shelters. Such bunkers are to protect the population in case of war, or any sort of attack, by any means. In particular, Östermalmstorg station was designed in the early 1960’s to serve as a shelter. It’s not just a cold war effect. Sweden being neutral and not a NATO member, it relies on its own resources for national security and takes it seriously.`
In 1957 T-Centralen station was the first station to gain art.
Not what is actually pictured above but what was mostly used during these times: tiling.
The ‘blue’ platform above, by Per Olof Ultvedt, opened in 1975.
Stockholm Metro Art: the political debate
The impulse to displaying Art, in the metro, was first a political one. It was carried by the social Democrats in the late 1950s. They wanted Art to be accessible to the People, not just a happy wealthy few. With such impulse, they opposed long time belief that metro stations should first and foremost be functional.
They launched competitions to find artists to paint and create Art in some of the existing stations. A few were adorned in the late 50’s, while most were done in the 60’s and 70’s. Artist first worked on existing stations and where then asked to participate to the creation of new stations with the architects.
Whole ceilings were painted, while sculptures, mosaics and various other art pieces were installed.
Stadion station is one of Stockholm’s first cave stations and was built in 1973. The artist Åke Pallarp and Enno Hallek, give here a reminder of the 1972 Olympics, while making people a little bit more cheerful!
Stockholm Metro Art: the political statement
In the 60’s and especially 70’s the Stockholm Metro became a playground for artists with a strong message. The Art was intended to raise social questions and to make a political statement. Women’s rights, inclusivity, and deforestation were amongst the themes.
Solna Centrum station for example, may just seem like an explosion of colors. It is in fact a representation of the major issues of the 70’s: rural depopulation & deforestation due to the booming industrialization and its environmental impact.
picture above by Mr A!
Solna Centrum. 1975. Artists Anders Åberg and Karl-Olov Björk
Tekniska Högskolan station, near the Royal Institute of Technology was built in 1973 and is dedicated to sciences and discoveries – art by Lennart Mörk
Note that there are five polyhedra like the one above. Each one represents one of Plato’s five elements: fire, water, air, earth, and ether.
Stockholm Metro Art: today
Today, the Storstockholms Lokaltrafik, the public transportation in Stockholm, or SL in short, focuses on Art pieces created now. For example, six stations display temporary Art which are changed several times a year.
To be displayed in the Metro, Art still has to comply with strict rules including to be able to withstand cleaning!
As per SL website: ‘The art makes the stations perceived as more beautiful, safer and it helps to make the trip into something more than just a transport between two places.”
Well, I think we could all agree, Art makes life more interesting!
Kungsträdgården is a station built in 1970 and decorated as an underground garden by Ulrik Samuelson in 1977.
Do note that there are cave-dwelling spiders in this station, and apparently they are thriving!
The technical bits
Start your trip where you are or preferably in T-Centralen, the main hub which gives you access to all 3 lines.
Yes you need a valid ticket to get around!
There are some pretty nice information on the official Stockholm website: www.visitstockholm.com
The Expedia interactive map is absolutely fascinating. You can find it here: www.expedia.se
An in-depth guide per period, artists and station is available on SL site here.
There are guided tours available but English tours are only a summer thing. (check the SL site)
If you want to know more, here is the book you need:
Art Goes Underground: Art In the Stockholm Metro
Please note that this does not seem to be the latest edition as there is one that was published in 2004. However the 2004 edition seems to only be available in Sweden!