Perched on a hilltop, tucked away in peaceful woods, Notre Dame du Haut, the only Chapel designed by Le Corbusier, is a feast for the eyes.
It’s not just about the Chapel either. The site of the Ronchamp chapel is now an architectural heaven with 3 incredible architects having participated to the site: Le Corbusier of course, Jean Prouvé and Renzo Piano.
Note: there are affiliated links down below for books about the Chapel of Ronchamp and Le Corbusier that you might enjoy if you want to know more. If you decide to purchase one of those books, I’ll get a small commission at no extra cost to you.
A touch of history
There was always a chapel on top of this hill, at least as far back as the 4th century. It was damaged beyond repair during WWII and Le Corbusier was thereafter commissioned to design a new chapel for the site.
On the inauguration day Le Corbusier said “I wanted to create a place of silence, prayer, peace, inner joy”. Something he clearly brilliantly managed.
We’ve already discussed Le Corbusier’s work when visiting his Cité Radieuse in Marseilles. When visiting Ronchamp you will recognize his style. The first thing you will notice when arriving, is the wavy roof top of the chapel which will appear to you as you walk up the hill. Once on the top of the hill, facing the chapel, its simple design, its white walls contrasting with the greenery around, yet fading with the sky will give you peace.
Nether the less, when stepping inside the chapel, you will be blown away! At least I hope!
The inside of the chapel is so peaceful and so quiet. There is something really special about it which is hard to describe. You know how much I love churches and gothic architecture. But as you will see below, this chapel can’t be further away from what I’m used to, architecture wise. Despite this, I couldn’t leave. Maybe it was the soft light of different shades filling the space, maybe it was because I was mostly alone. Maybe it was just because I was so happy to be back! I’ll never know. In this moment, I was at ease and thankful for all my blessings.
Ronchamp is considered as singular in Le Corbusier’s work. He confirmed himself that the difficulty of access of the site forced him to depart from his usual construction technic.
To me, it felt like the chapel is exactly what it is supposed to be. It’s not big but it does feel huge. Everything has a well thought purpose. The design is extremely simple, yet efficient. It is ageless.
The Visit
The Chapel by Le Corbusier
Le Corbusier was an atheist but he belied things could be sacred without being religious. Architecture was his mean to create sacred and spiritual environments. The Chapel in Ronchamp is one of his greatest achievements.
As you arrive up the hill, notice the wall in front of you which is the one the left side in the above picture. When you walk inside the chapel, you will understand all the openings in such wall. Or you can just look at the below pictures!
The chapel has a main space with the usual altar and seating areas but it also has 3 little chapels which are located on the sides.
The light coming from the top of the towers are striking and vary depending of the conditions outside.
You will most likely enter by the small side entrance, not the main door which is pictured below. It was also designed by Le Corbusier who was an accomplished artist.
As you exit the chapel, you will see a sort of basin outside which seems to be there to collect water from the roof. I was almost disappointed that it wasn’t raining that day!
Do notice the openings which provide the light inside the side chapels.
As you will see further down below, one of the side of the chapel has an external altar for outdoor mass. The statue of the Virgin Mary in the wall was saved from the former chapel.
The pilgrims’ shelter
I wanted to show you the chapel right away but the first thing you will walk by is the pilgrim’s shelter. From what I understood, it was first the living quarters of the builders of the chapel. It was later converted into a place where pilgrims could stay.
Le Corbusier designed everything including the furniture. As usual, it is extremely functional. With a dormitory, pictured below as well as simple yet functional lavatories, a kitchen and a refectory with indoor and outdoor space.
Le Corbusier created there something simple, yet extremely functional, while working on the natural light in a way that very few architects do.
The pilgrims’ shelter will be on your right when you go up the hill. Just as you pass it, you will notice another little house on your left (pictured above). It is the chaplain’s house and is still habited today.
The pyramid of peace
On top the hill, on the right of the chapel, you will notice a pyramid! It may seems weird at first and maybe even a little out-of-place.
From what I could gather, it seems that stones remained from the former chapel and were put there, on the side, during the construction of the new chapel. When asked to create a commemorative monument to the men who had died during WWII, Le Corbusier decided to use such stones to create a pyramid!
You get a great view of the outdoor chapel from the top of the pyramid!
The Campanile by Jean Prouvé
Jean Prouvé’s contribution to the site can be seen on the left of the chapel. It is the campanile pictured below. I wish I could tell you more about it, but I wasn’t paying a lot of attention to the visit apps when I was there! Sorry…
The convent by Renzo Piano
Going back down, you will be able to walk pass the chaplain’s house, to the convent. You are allowed to go to the chapel at the end of it, but when I arrived, there were some people there, praying and I didn’t want to bother them.
Designed by Renzo Piano in 2011, there are 2 elongated buildings completely integrated in their surrounding. These might look quite austere from my pictures, but I swear to you that if it wasn’t a convent, I would move in tomorrow. Again, it’s all in the light and simplicity!…
The picture below shows the gatehouse which is the entrance to the site and was also designed by Renzo Piano. It host the boutique, information desk, etc. Seriously, do check out the official website for an aerial view, you will see how well these buildings integrate in the site. Not like on my picture where it maybe looks like a prison?!
Just a few more pictures as I walked back down.
Just a few more pictures as I walked back down.
There is a very small graveyard at the entrance.
I had been to Ronchamp before. Actually before the convent was built by Renzo Piano. There was only the chapel. The pilgrims’ shelter must have been there but I don’t recall seeing it. What I recalled was the light in the chapel and how peaceful I felt when I was there.
When I left home, for this latest road trip, I was full of happiness, I had a broad plan for this trip on which Ronchamp was just the first stop of many incredible places. Yet at that point, I had no idea how much I needed to escape. No idea of what was to come. For a moment, in the chapel and on the grounds, I felt at peace. I was full of hope and my heart was lifted when a ray of sunshine pierced through the clouds and lit up the chapel. Like a sign everything was going to be ok. A sign I thought that meant everything was going to be great on this trip. Maybe it was the wrong interpretation…
The Technical bits
The biggest cities around Ronchamp are Besançon and Mulhouse. This might mean little to you. So if you can locate Strasbourg, then you’re almost there. Drive 2 hours South, stay in France (don’t cross the border to Switzerland) and you’re almost there.
If you still have no idea, then locate Paris. Ronchamp is about 4,5 hours South / East. Or use Google map!
Anyway, Ronchamp is in a quiet little town of the East of France. But don’t despair, there are lots of other things to do in that part of France! The Vosges are waiting for you but I was heading in a different direction so my next article will be bout another incredible UNESCO World Heritage site…
The Ronchamp Chapel was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1967 as part of Le Corbusier work. You can check out next the Cité Radieuse and visit one of the apartment if you wish.
The official website is www.collinenotredameduhaut.com.
I noticed after my visit that pictures are not allowed inside the various buildings. I swear I didn’t know. So I decided to share them anyway.