Läckö slott is a medieval castle located on Kållandsö island on Lake Vänern.
Intuitively, one may not think of Sweden as a land filled with medieval castle. I surely didn’t think I would be visiting a castle like Läckö castle, when I started planning my road trip in Sweden.
Vast landscape of never ending forests, yes. Rolling hills with scattered red houses, yes. Lakes so big that you wonder if you reached the sea, yes. Medieval castle? no!
But in fact, there is an incredible number of medieval castles in Sweden and Läckö castle is one, you really should visit.
Early history of Läckö castle
The history of Läckö castle goes back to the end of the 13th century, when the bishop of the area started building a fortress. It probably wasn’t much but it was strategically located. When you’ll see the castle overlooking the Vänern lake, you’ll understand immediately.
In the 14th century, Sweden broke up with the Roman Catholic Church and created the protestant Swedish Church. At the time, Läckö was taken by the crown and Gustav Vasa took possession of it. Gustav Vasa, or Gustav I, was born Gustav Eriksson and was King of Sweden from 1523 until his death, in 1560. It seems that Gustav Vasa was a ruthless king but he is considered today, as the founder of modern Sweden.
The king seemed to have other priorities and didn’t care much for Läckö which had to wait for his brother in law, Svante Sture, to take over and do some repairing and improvements. Svante Sture son-in-law, Hogenskild Bielke, was made a baron and granted Läckö in 1571. It seems that Hogenskild Bielke is the one who commissioned some of the murals that can still be seen in the castle.
Having been found guilty of conspiring against the crown, Hogenskild Bielke was executed in 1605. High treason was taken seriously at the time and usual lead to the confiscation of all properties.
Hence come in play the De la Gardie family, a noble & influent family at the time and a well remembered name.
Below you’ll find a ‘quick’ and witty summary of the De la Gardie family. You can skip of course but I found their story fascinating!
The De la Gardie familie
Pontus de la Gardie
We’ll start the story of the De la Gardie with Pontus de la Gardie (1520-1585). Pontus was born in the South of France and although he wanted to become a priest, he turned out to become a brillant mercenary, first at the service of Denmark. Why not!? Who are we to consider this a major change of heart? Have we already forgotten about crusades?!
As Pontus was made prisoner by the Swedes, he changed allegiance and became one of John III of Sweden favorite (John III was the son of Gustav I, we talked about earlier) and was ennobled very quickly. He was even given the hand of Sofia Johansdotter Gyllenhielm, the illegitimate dautgher of the king!
Despite being one of John III’s favorite, he was suspected to have participated in the plot to assassinate him. Unlike Hogenskild Bielke, he was never put on trial.
In fact, his family prospered.
Jacob De la Gardie
Pontus’s son, Jacob De la Gardie (1583-1652) became a highly ranked military officer. Appointed at the Privy Council, he later became Lord High Constable. Most likely like you, I have no idea what this title exactly means but it sounds really important! Later on, he even became regent (with 4 others) of the crown, during Queen Christina’s minority.
Jacob received Läckö castle in 1615 and as such held the title of Count of Läckö. I didn’t mention this earlier but I really love how castles & lands, were just granted and taken back at will. It is always fascinating.
Anyway, Jacob must have loved Läckö because, as you can read on the main website:
“Count De la Gardie embarked on an extensive building spree, including the third floor of the keep. The portal to the main courtyard was added during this period, as were the frescos depicting people and winding plants found in niches, stairwells and the rooms on the third floor.”
Jacob had many children, 14 in fact although only 7 lived to become adults. Not quite sure how he had enough castles for all of his children but, his son, Magnus Gabriel De la Gardie (1622 – 1686) inherited Läckö castle, amongst others.
Magnus Gabriel De la Gardie
Magnus Gabriel De la Gardie (1622 – 1686) followed his father footsteps and also became a member of the Privy Council. He even held 3 of the 5 offices counted as Great Officers of the Realm and married well. He owned more than 1000 castles and manor houses (Sweden’s borders were far and beyond what they are today).
But favors come and go and Magnus suffered greatly from changes that happened. In 1681, Magnus had lost all power and all, but one, of his properties. His Läckö castle was promptly ceased by the King. Its furniture was partly auctioned and the remaining items were sold by his widow, to pay off debts.
Despite having fallen out of favor, Magnus De la Gardie is considered one of the biggest patrons of science and art in Swedish history.
With regards to Läckö castle, quoting again the official website:
In 1654 Magnus Gabriel De la Gardie initiated immense construction projects at Läckö, including new rooms and housing for the staff in the gatehouse. He also added the kitchen wing, the castle chapel and a fourth floor on the keep. Even if the Middle Ages hover over large parts of the castle, it is the Baron’s castle we see when we visit Läckö today.
It seems that Magnus extended the castle so much, the staff needed to run the castle had to increase from 83 employees to 222 between 1662 and 1678.
What happened to Läckö castle after 1680?
That’s a good question! It seems that as a Swedish state property, the Läckö castle was mostly rented out to private individuals for something like 200 years or so.
One of the tenant, in the 18th century, was Carl Gustaf Tessin. He was known as the most prominent representative of French culture in Sweden at the time. Studying the history of the Läckö castle had lead me to learn about the Swedish love for French culture & art and that was actually surprising to me (reminder here: I’m French!).
In 1815 the castle returned once more to the crown but not the rest of the estate, which was still rented out until 1914.
Although the castle was empty for most of the 19th century, there was, at the time, a wave of new appreciation for medieval times and especially medieval architecture. This was fortunate for Läckö castle.
At the beginning of the 20th century Läckö was ‘rediscovered’ and renovated. By 1964, Läckö castle started a new life with tourism and exhibitions being organized. It is a national monument since 1993.
A word about Läckö castle architecture
As you understood from above, the Läckö castle was first a fortress which construction had started in the 13th century.
However, it is the De la Gardie family which made Läckö castle what it is today: A Swedish Baroque masterpiece! Magnus De la Gardie had hired artists and sculptors from all over Europe to decorate his palace.
Today, it is considered fortunate that after De la Gardie’s ownership, the castle led a, somehow, sleepy life. It has escaped major transformation or poor restoration which a lot of other castles suffered from!
The visit
Now let’s visit Läckö castle! Beware, it’s huge! You can’t really realize this when standing in front of it, but you will realize when you are given the little guide!
Läckö slott ground floor floorplan 
Läckö slott 1st floor floorplan 
Läckö slott 2nd floor floorplan 
Läckö slott 3rd floor floorplan
There are 4 different floors to explore. From the chapel to the kitchens, from the various Halls to the bedrooms. Some rooms have been refurnished to give a sense of what it looked like in the 17th century. Some rooms are used for exhibitions. Do not miss the treasury!
In addition, you should know that you can roam around the castle freely but there is also a partial guided tour, which start in the King’s Hall.
Here below are some additional pictures of the Läckö castle inside.
There are additional info, in caption, for some pictures, So click and browse through this delightful castle!
Beautiful murals and ceiling 
Läckö slott murals – Lake Castle in Sweden – www.RoadTripsaroundtheWorld.com
Läckö slott kitchen 
The linen store. The castle had a very detailed inventory 
How to press linen
more gorgeous ceilings 
An angel carrying a crown – ceiling of the King’s Hall
The technical bits
Läckö castle official website is http://www.lackoslott.se
The castle is mostly closed in winter but there are lots of activities organized all year long. Concerts, exhibitions, boat tours, special events for Midsummer celebrations, Halloween, Christmas… and the chapel can be used for weddings!
Do check the official website to plan your visit.
The Naturum has its own exhibitions, boutique and very nice restaurant as well as some rooms for overnight stay. It’s charming!
Type Naturum Vänerskärgården – Victoriahuset in the search box below and book your next stay!
Booking.com